Here you have my other 5 more reasons why to come to Penang, and enjoy. It is a special place, and like every special place, it takes some time to understand its uniqueness. You can indulge in the food trail, lose yourself in the forest, take some hikes along the Northern shores or shop till you drop in the modern Georgetown city center. What you cannot do, on the contrary, is lamenting because beer is expensive and there is no fun to be found nowhere, when you didn’t go further up than the 15 meters connecting Banana guest house’s front beer patio to the internet cafe’ on the corner.  In this case, you deserve to be sent back to Thailand with a fresh 2 months visa and please, tell all the people like you that Penang is boring and expensive, because we don’t really need losers like you on these shores.

5 Little India’s delicious food traps

I’ve been to South India where these people from Penang are from, and I tasted the original dishes. The conclusion is that Penang’s Indian food is not any worse than any Tamil Nadu’s dish, and most times it is even more delicious. I’m not the only one to say it. In a food paradise like Penang Island, Indian food has a special place: Little India is the area where it obviously most abounds, and where you can spend some interesting moments sampling different kinds of mouthwatering delicacies. One of my favorites are the vegetable samosas you can find at the corner of Jalan Market.0.50 rm gets you a piece of paradise, try and tell me. Hands down, the best and cheapest (plus cleanest) restaurant is definitely Woodlands: eat good and healthy vegetarian Indian food, sample the thick gravys, and be hooked for life. Indian food in Penang is able to let you stay and extra week, sometimes, so be careful!

4 Hungry Ghost Festival

Held for a month between August and September, the Hungry Ghost Festival is the Chinese version of Halloween: during this time the dead are supposed to come back from the Gates of Hell to demand something to the living. This is why for the whole month the incautious traveler keeps asking himself why all of those people are burning things on the streets, and the fire brigade is always around, ready to intervene if the flames get too high?? The best part of it comes during the last week, when the ceremonies reach their most dramatic moments: temple possessions with monks whipping each other, people walking on broken glass, spirits talking in high pitched voices from the ridiculously corrugated faces of old, fat Chinese men, and the final big burning, when every clan has to burn a 3 to 5 meters high paper statue of the God of Hell…. Believe me, the Wicker Man is still kicking his ball in the playground.

3 Upper Penang Road Clubs

Malaysian Night Life is posh, curvaceous and expensive. It really is. Kuala Lumpur boosts some of the poshest clubs and discos in the nation, and Penang comes second with its Upper Penang Road which seems to get relatively overlooked by the people coming by. If you have some cash to shell out and don’t mind waitresses who’ll do anything to pour another drop of beer in your glass so you’ll have to buy more, this is the place to go. Rarely human eyes have seen Asian beauties so awesomely geared up with stilettos, miniskirts and make up to kill the night away like in this place… Wednesday it is Ladies’ Night, and the atmosphere becomes even hotter.

2 Silambam Nilaikalakki

www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxaaF9v8rXw

Penang gets interesting when you get to know its underbelly: the good things don’t hang out in Chulia Street. If you are interested in martial arts, Penang is one of the few places in the world where, if you have dedication and time to spend, you can learn the ancient Indian art of stick fighting, Silambam. Originally from the hills of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, Silambam is taught in Penang by Master Anbananthan: you need to carefully follow his teachings to get to master the syllabus, before venturing into your own path of self development. Silambam is foremost a healthy practice, like Yoga, with intricate flowing techniques, and then becomes an efficient combat system. You cannot learn it in one day, for it takes roughly seven years to become a master; but if you have time on the island, you can definitely give it a go and learn some of the basics to enhance your health, since Silambam mostly improves the blood circulation. If you want to know more or participate, feel free to contact me and I’ll give you more detailed information.

1 Balik Pulau

Before turning into one of the biggest industrial centers of Malaysia and Southeast Asia, Penang was a beautiful island, a place densely covered by nature, with coconut trees lining up its shores and sleepy villagers pushing their ox carts trough the rice paddies. While Penang is certainly not like that anymore, some of its areas still retain some of the old charm: Balik Pulau is the best example. A sleepy and rural suburb in the lower West corner of the island, this is the place to go if you want to escape from the increasingly crazy traffic jams, the crowds and the steamy afternoons in Georgetown. Ride a pushbike, sat under the coconut trees and immerse yourself in the natural scenery, and if you dare, try to taste some of the Durian fruit readily available, but if you do, consider staying away from your girlfriend that same night… it can produce some uncontrollable foul smells from every hole in your body, mouth included…don’t tell me later I didn’t warn you!

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Penang Island is one of the most interesting places in Malaysia, and definitely one of the most famous stops along the South East Asian tourist trail.  Nicknamed as “the Pearl of the Orient” and recently boosting a superior facility development, it truly amazes me that, out of 10 people I talk to, at least half come up with the following statement, enforced with anxious lip movements and eyeball rolling:

“I don’t like Georgetown”

This is it, the sentence which all sorts of travelers seem to prefer when addressing to Penang Island. They hate Georgetown. After more than a year calling this place home, I felt compelled to try to write down a top 10 list of the best to do in Penang… which is an island, after all, and cannot be reduced to the snobbish statement of those backpackers who, on the sole purpose of obtaining a Thai tourist visa, don’t even dare to leave the backpacker ghetto concoction of Lebuh Chulia, Love Lane and Muntri Street in Georgetown. It is for a reason that these people get bored and call an Island with the name of a suburb!! Let me help you out to find the beauty of Penang Island and discover some of its hidden places.

10 Drink Cheap at Antarabangsa

The main reason why Western tourists hate Malaysia is the higher price of alcohol because of the taxes enforced by the predominant Muslim government.   Sadly, it is true. But just behind the corner from the God of Mercy temple, at the northernmost end of Muntri Street, there is a little bar which might alone change your Penang experience in matter of seconds. I am talking about Antarabangsa. This word means “International” in Malay, although the only internationality you might find seems to be of Indian descent. A Chinese run enterprise, this place has the cheapest booze on the island, with the cheapest beers to be sold at 3.5 rm (around 1 US$). You can even get bottles of Burmese Orang Utan whiskey for 4rm a piece (around 1.25$)!! Isn’t this what every backpacker coming in from the booze luxury of Southern Thailand wants?  The picturesque backdrop of the Chinese tiles of the God of Mercy temple, the rugged tables, the total lack of comfort and style and the back-alley trash atmosphere make Antarabangsa the best dive I ever encountered during my trips across the East Asian landmass… proud to be a customer ever since I got introduced to it.

9 Kek Lok Si Temple

Dominating the view of the island while standing on top of the multi storey pagoda perched on the western side of Kek Lok Si temple is one of the highlights of every visit to Penang.  Being the biggest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia, is definitely a place not to miss. It is so colorful and abundant in carvings and statues that you might easily spend a whole afternoon exploring its halls and quiet gardens. In 2002, a 30 meters tall statue of goddess Kuan Yin was completed and now rules over the Eastern side of the temple, from where it is lovely to relax observing the cityscape melting slowly into the sea. The best time to visit is definitely during Chinese New Year celebrations, when the temple literally lights up adorned by thousands of votive lanterns… a photographer dream coming true.

8 Thaipusam Festival

Please, try to come to Penang during the weekend when the Indian Festival Thaipusam is held, usually around the end of January. Literally hundreds of Indians pay homage to their Gods in the most particular way:  piercing their tongues and faces with metal skewers, hanging hundreds of small votive spheres to their flesh using little hooks, and carrying the giant Kavadis on their shoulders… you’ll be also lucky enough to witness people pulling trucks loaded with statues of Shiva, Anuman and the likes using their bare backs… how? With big hooks pierced in their flesh, of course!! This is the most savage, amazing and entertaining festival I’ve seen in Malaysia…and probably in the rest of Asia, too. The streets are literally closed down to allow the procession to flow into the main Waterfall Temple, and you will be forced to dance and party till the wee hours, helped to keep standing by the copious amount of free refreshment handed gently to the participants… literally, a must!

7 Hiking at Teluk Bahang National Park

Many people are in such a rush to get to Taman Negara and have most likely a disappointing experience there, that they just overlook this stretch of pristine rainforest perched on the Northwestern corner of Penang Island. Two moderately hard trekking routes lead you to the two best beaches in Penang, Pantai Keracut, where it is possible to see Marine Turtles’ nests, and Monkey Beach, where you better secure your backpack to something solid to avoid the Grey Bearded macaques’ snatch attacks.  A beautiful corner of the island which seldom sees many travelers venturing by… it is also possible to take showers in the National Park Offices before getting back on the frequent bus 101 to Georgetown.

6 Chowrasta Book Market

What would you expect from a wet market? The same smorgasbord of colors, smells, meats and pyramids of vegetables found in any Asian market? Yes, but Chowrasta, a market building situated along the main artery Penang Road in front of the Police Station, has even more. If you venture at the back and climb a tiny metal ladder, you will be taken back in the world of 80’s and 90’s paperbacks… books are expensive in Malaysia, and this is the place where to scout for bargains. Literally thousands of books are piled up in tiny shops scattered all along the corridors of the market area… whatever your pick is, you’ll find something able to raise your interest: It is even possible, for the hardcore travel collectors, to find very old and rare editions of Lonely Planet titles… I just saw the first edition of “China” the other day… be prepared to spare a few long, busy and dusty hours to unearth some hidden gem from this rarity museum!

TO BE CONTINUED

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fGQGOolg4Q

A collaboration between Sam Stavros and Antonio Graceffo. Twenty-two year-old Reuters photographer, Dan Eldon and was stoned to death in Mogadishu, Somalia. In addition to covering conflicts in Africa, he personally organized aid and relief missions to help the starving people. Dan’s mother. Kahy and sister, Amy published his diaries and art work in a book, “The Journey is the Destination.”

Dan believed in the concept of The Global Tribe. Antonio Graceffo was so moved by the life of Dan Eldon and by the music of Sam Stavros that he took Dan’s work from Africa to Asia. Together, Sam and Antonio created this video, using footage of Shan and other ethnicities of Burma.

“The purpose of the video is many fold.” Says Antonio, “I wanted to tell people about Dan and to remind them to lead a powerful life. I also wanted to promote Dan’s concept of the global tribe. Finally, I saw the suffering of the Burmese people, especially the Shan, as being a global, human tragedy which needed to be told.

When Antonio told Sam Stavros about the situation in Burma, Sam said, “This is exactly a situation Dan would have been concerned about.”

Both the book and story of Dan’s life inspired Antonio Graceffo and countless people around the globe. “Dan made more difference in his short life than many do in a long lifetime.” BBC

Sam Stavros, Dan’s cousin, wrote a moving song dedicated to Dan’s life, entitled, “Neverland.” The song is both powerful and moving and encourages people to follow their dreams, to fly, and never land.

Kathy and Amy formed a foundation called Creative Visions dedicated to the memory of Dan Eldon. “Creative Visions Foundation supports “Creative Activists”, individuals who use the power of media and the arts to create positive change in the world” from creativisions.org

This video is dedicated to the Shan and all of the people suffering at the hands of the Burmese junta.

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Following to Dan Eldon’s introduction, I decided to have a little cross interview with Antonio Graceffo and Sam Stavros, relative of Dan and author of the song dedicated to him, “Neverland”. I think the following interview contains some very thoughtful and witty insights which made me reflect on my situation, and soon I will follow up with my own article and vision on this whole matter. But let them speak for the moment being….

M- Dan’s life was indeed incredible. How do you relate your life experiences to Dan’s? As an adventure writer and martial artists, and as a musician, which is the meaning of your particular stance to life, if you have any?

ANTONIO-Sadly, I am not a musician.  I think Dan’s story touched me so much because I could draw some parallels. I have been in Asia nearly ten years adventuring. Dan spent nearly his entire life outside the US and most of it in Africa. I guess I am tied to Asia now. Dan was a writer, I am a writer. Dan did photography, I take pictures, dan made videos, I make videos, dan worked as a journalist, but he took an active role in helping people when he saw the need. And I have done the same.  We are similar in many ways, but he was greater, because his reach was greater. What is important is the number of people who you can reach. The greater your reach, the greater your capacity to help. Dan’s reach, after the end of his life is much greater than mine, and I am alive. Perhaps that is why he died so young. He had already fulfilled his mission, risen to the heights he needed to, and the rest of us are still struggling to get there.

SAM-Dan’s life was much more imaginative and enduring than my own.  Dan and I both attended the same College in Pasadena and we both traveled – but the difference was that Dan was immersed in a troubled continent and tried to do something about it.

M-  “Safari as a way of life” is a pretty strong statement. Do you agree in any way, or do you think Dan would have changed his strong opinions, growing up?

ANTONIO- Sam stavros made the point that when you die young, one of the huge advantages is that you haven’t been forced yet to compromise your beliefs or curb your dreams. I cant predict what Dan would have done in later life. But I would imagine he wouldn’t have settled into a job at the post office or the local library.  I think avoiding growing up and remaining young is the only way to keep your strong ideals. I know I have much more freedom than most people my age because I have sworn off the adult world of family, possessions, and career.  Recently, I saw a movie called “Up in the Air” where George Clooney is a business consultant who tells people not to have attachments, because they are too heavy and they weigh us down when we fly. I feel that as an adult, these are the kinds of sacrifices we have to make to keep our ideals, to follow dreams and live adventures. In Dan, however, I didn’t see any hint of loneliness or regret. Perhaps that was because he was young and lack of attachment looked good on him. Or perhaps it was because he was a special kind of being.

SAM- I have and continue to live my life like that – Safari as a Way of Life.  Always looking for new things to do, always curious, never approaching an experience timidly.  I used to go on surf safaris when I was young – and that was just loading up some boards and then going with no planning whatsoever – the surfing was great – but it was the life experiences that really made those trips.  Safari as a Way of life is just like that – always doing something then seeing what amazing twist the doing will bring!

M-What is the meaning of your “Neverland” related to the world of today?

ANTONIO- I think I live in Neverland now. I have complete freedom and lack of attachment. I adventure and explore constantly. But unlike with Peter Pan, I know there is a price. And I become more and more aware of it with each passing year. Perhaps the mythical Neverland would be an exact copy of my life, but with time standing still.

SAM-”Neverland” contains the hope of returned innocence, or should I say never losing innocence, to be forever young at heart.  With the right idealism and energy we can always have part of our spirit in “Neverland.”

M-  What are your suggestions for the youth of today, to try to teach them how to live more enrichening lives, if you have any?

ANTONIO- If you wish to live anything but a narcissistic self-centered existence, then you need to give to others. You can do this by performing volunteer or work or giving community service. But you can also do it by leaving behind a massive body of creative work. Actors, sculptors, painters, writers, teacher, and trainers leave a legacy of lives touched and bettered.  Set goals in your life and achieve them. Don’t make them material goals. If your goal is to make money, that is ok, money can be liberating, but DEBT CANNOT. And ownership of things CAN be a PRISON. Your goal should NOT be to buy this or that. Material things are a complete waste.  Your goals should be to learn this or that, to experience this or that, to see and to create and to pass on to someone else.  I get email every day from Americans and Europeans who want to come to asia and learn martial arts. They say they want to follow their dream like I did, BUT they don’t have money. 90% of these people have jobs and earn more than I do. So how is it I can afford it and they can’t?  The answer is, they are tied to THINGS, possessions, debts, which rob them of their freedom.  The same people never sent an email to Apple Corp. saying how they dreamed of owning an I-Pod. Although they wanted an I-Pod and eventually went into debt to buy one, that dream was less powerful than their dream to follow their hearts and explore the world.  An I-Pod or a new car, or a house they can’t afford is preventing them from following their dreams. And all the while, the clock in the sky is ticking. Their lives are ending one second at a time and they chose a new car over a year of studies in Asia.  You could talk about a new car for about ten minutes. And a year later it wont be new anymore. But a year in Asia will last you a life time and it will gain in value with each passing year.

SAM- Yes absolutely the lesson of Dan Eldon and his message to the youth of today is get out and do some things and let your imagination and experience lead you to how you can best be a help to the world.  As Henry David Thoreu said, “Don’t just be good, be good for Something.”

M-You can describe what thinking of Dan’s example brings up to your mind, and try to share with us people. Why do you think we should know about him, and what do you want to open up with the making of your media project?

ANTONIO-  Dan lived a real life, a powerful life, I am trying to live a powerful life, let these two lives be an example. I hope dan can inspire people to live out their dreams.  When I was crossing the taklamakan desert, alone, on a tricycle, I cut an $80 shirt to make a headband.  I don’t miss that $80 shirt. But the memory of crossing the desert means a lot to me. And I wrote a book about it and I hope it will out live me.  Dan’s body of work outlived him. I have no idea if he owned an $80 shirt. I suspect he didn’t care.

SAM- People should know about Dan Eldon because he actually lived the life that many – even most – people dream of; he was adventurous with all of his adventures designed to spread knowledge and at least some hope of bettering the places that he went.

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I receive and publish an article written by friend and martial artists Antonio Graceffo regarding an interesting project who will help all the travelers and adventurers confronting their own actions with the ones of a real American journalist hero, Dan Eldon. Antonio Graceffo, teaming up with the band Stavros Music, is putting together a video tribute to Dan Eldon which will be available on Monkeyrockworld very soon, and will be the starting point for a few reflection articles about my life in Asia and traveling the world… read on!

Reuters photographer, Dan Eldon and three colleagues were stoned to death on 12 July 1993, in Mogadishu, Somalia. At age 19, Dan had been the youngest Reuters photographer ever, and he was only 22 when he died. In addition to covering conflicts in Africa, he personally organized aid and relief missions to help the starving people. Months after Dan’s death, his family, in USA, received a crate full of his effects from Africa. Among those possessions that survived were countless bound volumes of his writing, photos and art work which commemorated his life’s work.

“Dan made more difference in his short life than many do in a long lifetime.” BBC

Dan’s mother and sister formed a foundation called Creative Visions dedicated to the memory of Dan Eldon. Creative Visions Foundation supports “Creative Activists”, individuals who use the power of media and the arts to create positive change in the world? from creativevisions.org

I first heard about American, Dan Elden when his mother and sister appeared on the Oprah Winfrey show. His story touched me. And in some ways, it paralleled my own life, and my choice to leave my career and follow my dreams in Asia. I haven?t touched as many people or helped as many as Dan, but that is my dream and remembering Dan gives me energy and motivation to continue my work, reporting on tribal and religious
minorities across Asia.

When I was in Taiwan, adventure writing, a number of years ago, I barely had money to eat. When one of my family members offered to send me some pocket money, I asked them instead to send me Dan’s book,  “The Journey is the Destination”. In this book, Dan said his mission statement was “Safari as a way of life”.  All of his life was a journey of discovery. In a documentary on youtube, Dan’s mother tells a group of young people:

“To kids in the world, I think he would have said, “You may only dance a short time”, his dance has been very short indeed, but he would have said, “You choose your dance. You choose the music for your dance. You dance proudly, you dance loudly, you dance with incredible spirit and creativity and life and joy. And especially you go out and dance with love”.

I even mentioned him as my inspiration in my book, “The Desert of Death on Three Wheels“. Here is the quote from when I finally made it across the desert, ending in the small city of Kashgar, China

“No one gave me a parade or a medal when I got to Kashgar. The trip was over. But the Journey continues. I remember my hero Dan Eldon whose biography is called. “The Journey is the Destination.” It’s not about achievements or rewards. It is about having an interesting life along the way. Next spring I plan to be the first American to cross the interior of the desert from South to North, with a camel.” There is an article excerpt published on line.

Recently, I received correspondence from Sam Stavros, who is the lead singer of a band, Stavros Music, who did a song dedicated to Dan Eldon called Neverland. At first I thought the meaning of Neverland was that Dan, and others who follow their dreams, don’t live in this world. They live in some parallel, magical, universe, a Neverland. And that meaning is suggested, but the refrain which says, “I am a plane that only flies.”
Following your dreams you just fly and fly and never land.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=67PYmzkW_HU

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In the previous part, I was talking about how to manage train bookings in India. Well, there is still a lot to be said. We were talking about classes on the Indian trains, and by far the cheapest and my personal favorite is definitely the sleeper class. This kind of class is comparable to a less private, less comfortable version of a Chinese hard sleeper class: the main difference being the higher quality of cleanliness on the Chinese trains, especially considering that in China bed linens and pillows are provided. In India, you get a bare boned plank which is definitely quite comfortable to sleep,  but in the summer time especially it can get pretty sticky. So, bring your own sarong or sleeping bag if you don’t want to sniff on some Indian sweat encrusted mattress

The above picture shows the disposition of a sleeping class compartment (and not only a wonderfully travel-wasted Kit Yeng passed out on the bunk): 6 bunks facing each other in 2 rows of 3 in the main compartment, and two other bunks, slightly longer, on the left side of the aisle, under the side window.  It actually also shows that, even if criticized by most travelers, sleeper is actually not that bad. The cool thing about traveling sleeper class is the constant flux of sellers offering chai tea, all sorts of snacks and light foods like dosai, vegetable pulaus, samosas etc. It is indeed a cultural experience, and a very pleasant way to break the long journeys chatting with all sorts of Indians who will definitely start a conversation with you, and most likely will offer you delicious foods. Although it is said to be quite common to be “drugged and robbed” using the food and friendly approach, don’t freak out. It’s highly improbable that an old Indian woman with her two 10 years old nephews will be interested in anything more than some conversation.

BOOKING TICKETS
This was indeed for me a difficult lesson to learn: booking a ticket can become a quite annoying and lenghty process. First off, remember that if you don’t want to get a standing ticket for any train leaving on the day you arrive in a train station, you need to go to the reservation counter. This is usually crowded and located in a different area of the station. If you are willing to pay extra to book with credit card, your waiting time will be almost minimal, otherwise expect queueing up in long, slow lines. The only station with a numbering waiting sysytem was found in Mysore, but I still had to wait close to an hour to get to the booth. Sleeper class is almost always booked sold full, because reservations for train trips usually open up to 90 days before the departure date, and people book ahead. It is also true that, with such a time advance, reservations get  cancelled or changed quickly, and seats/berth become unexpectedly available. It is generally impossible to know the seating allocation up to a couple hourse before the train departure. So, how to do if you really need to be on that train, and you want to travel quite comfortably? Simple. Think of the quotas.

If you don't wanna end up on the luggaage rack, please think carefully of the quotas...

The quotas are a system invented to complicate life, and if you try to understand them, you will lose, believe me. As a foreigner tourist, you can appeal to the “tourist quota”. This put simply means that the indian railways always reserve a particular number of sleeper berths in different classes for an allocated number of tourists. This means also that, being a tourist, it will be easier for you to get a seat on a train, even the most ovbercrowded. But bear in mind that when traveling in high season, a huge number of tourists means a smaller chance to get a seat, because contrary to China, for example, in India you can book a train from any other station. I mean, if you want to book the always sold out sleeper from Goa to Mumbai, you might book it in New Delhi, Varanasi, Tiruchirappalli or Tiruvalla, for all that matters. This makes it simple, but also, very difficult on peak holiday times. Be prepared to have a flexible itinerary, or book in advance.

Yes, you can bok in advance, and even online on Indian rail official site. But to do it, you need to have an Indian address where the tickets will be sent to. If you have friends in India, easy peasy. If you haven’t, like me before I went there, it might be a little more trickier. 

Another quota which might save your day is the Taktal Quota, which functions as an overcharge service. You pay 150 rupees more (around 3/4 euros more) and you will most likely get your seat/berth. But if adventure is what you want, the best is going for the Emergency Quota. This is a number of seats/berths allocated for special needs. In brief, it will work this way: you will pay for a ticket, paying for a seat which is not available. You will be sent to another office where someone will guide you to the station manager desk, and there, according to the circumstances, you will face a very pleasant or extremely arrogant and cocky individual who will give you a form to fill in. Always bring your passport with you because number, expiration dates and other particulars will be required, as much as an ID verification is mandatory to access to the supreme satation manager’s offices. The form will require you to state a reason for emergency; usually, providing data about your country of origin, the passport number, age and saying that you are a foreign tourist stuck in a city and in need to get to another one will suffice to land you a berth to sleep on. Then, cross your fingers because you will know your seat and carriage number only an hour before your departure, and only in the station of departure. This means that if you request an emergency quota in Varanasi for a train departing in Bangalore, you better hope Shiva is on your lucky side.

As a rule of thumb, traveling off season (like I did in April) doesn’t present particular difficulties in getting berths on any train route, booking even on same day notice, but I guess booking ahead on particular busy periods is essential. I wouldn’t risk to travel without reservations in North India from August to February, for example. It really does get cramped with tourists, believe me. Don’t even try Goa.
Indian Trains are somewhat like religion… you have to believe, and be faithful Good luck!! 

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