Monkeyrockworld

In the previous part, I was talking about how to manage train bookings in India. Well, there is still a lot to be said. We were talking about classes on the Indian trains, and by far the cheapest and my personal favorite is definitely the sleeper class. This kind of class is comparable to a less private, less comfortable version of a Chinese hard sleeper class: the main difference being the higher quality of cleanliness on the Chinese trains, especially considering that in China bed linens and pillows are provided. In India, you get a bare boned plank which is definitely quite comfortable to sleep,  but in the summer time especially it can get pretty sticky. So, bring your own sarong or sleeping bag if you don’t want to sniff on some Indian sweat encrusted mattress

The above picture shows the disposition of a sleeping class compartment (and not only a wonderfully travel-wasted Kit Yeng passed out on the bunk): 6 bunks facing each other in 2 rows of 3 in the main compartment, and two other bunks, slightly longer, on the left side of the aisle, under the side window.  It actually also shows that, even if criticized by most travelers, sleeper is actually not that bad. The cool thing about traveling sleeper class is the constant flux of sellers offering chai tea, all sorts of snacks and light foods like dosai, vegetable pulaus, samosas etc. It is indeed a cultural experience, and a very pleasant way to break the long journeys chatting with all sorts of Indians who will definitely start a conversation with you, and most likely will offer you delicious foods. Although it is said to be quite common to be “drugged and robbed” using the food and friendly approach, don’t freak out. It’s highly improbable that an old Indian woman with her two 10 years old nephews will be interested in anything more than some conversation.

BOOKING TICKETS
This was indeed for me a difficult lesson to learn: booking a ticket can become a quite annoying and lenghty process. First off, remember that if you don’t want to get a standing ticket for any train leaving on the day you arrive in a train station, you need to go to the reservation counter. This is usually crowded and located in a different area of the station. If you are willing to pay extra to book with credit card, your waiting time will be almost minimal, otherwise expect queueing up in long, slow lines. The only station with a numbering waiting sysytem was found in Mysore, but I still had to wait close to an hour to get to the booth. Sleeper class is almost always booked sold full, because reservations for train trips usually open up to 90 days before the departure date, and people book ahead. It is also true that, with such a time advance, reservations get  cancelled or changed quickly, and seats/berth become unexpectedly available. It is generally impossible to know the seating allocation up to a couple hourse before the train departure. So, how to do if you really need to be on that train, and you want to travel quite comfortably? Simple. Think of the quotas.

If you don't wanna end up on the luggaage rack, please think carefully of the quotas...

The quotas are a system invented to complicate life, and if you try to understand them, you will lose, believe me. As a foreigner tourist, you can appeal to the “tourist quota”. This put simply means that the indian railways always reserve a particular number of sleeper berths in different classes for an allocated number of tourists. This means also that, being a tourist, it will be easier for you to get a seat on a train, even the most ovbercrowded. But bear in mind that when traveling in high season, a huge number of tourists means a smaller chance to get a seat, because contrary to China, for example, in India you can book a train from any other station. I mean, if you want to book the always sold out sleeper from Goa to Mumbai, you might book it in New Delhi, Varanasi, Tiruchirappalli or Tiruvalla, for all that matters. This makes it simple, but also, very difficult on peak holiday times. Be prepared to have a flexible itinerary, or book in advance.

Yes, you can bok in advance, and even online on Indian rail official site. But to do it, you need to have an Indian address where the tickets will be sent to. If you have friends in India, easy peasy. If you haven’t, like me before I went there, it might be a little more trickier. 

Another quota which might save your day is the Taktal Quota, which functions as an overcharge service. You pay 150 rupees more (around 3/4 euros more) and you will most likely get your seat/berth. But if adventure is what you want, the best is going for the Emergency Quota. This is a number of seats/berths allocated for special needs. In brief, it will work this way: you will pay for a ticket, paying for a seat which is not available. You will be sent to another office where someone will guide you to the station manager desk, and there, according to the circumstances, you will face a very pleasant or extremely arrogant and cocky individual who will give you a form to fill in. Always bring your passport with you because number, expiration dates and other particulars will be required, as much as an ID verification is mandatory to access to the supreme satation manager’s offices. The form will require you to state a reason for emergency; usually, providing data about your country of origin, the passport number, age and saying that you are a foreign tourist stuck in a city and in need to get to another one will suffice to land you a berth to sleep on. Then, cross your fingers because you will know your seat and carriage number only an hour before your departure, and only in the station of departure. This means that if you request an emergency quota in Varanasi for a train departing in Bangalore, you better hope Shiva is on your lucky side.

As a rule of thumb, traveling off season (like I did in April) doesn’t present particular difficulties in getting berths on any train route, booking even on same day notice, but I guess booking ahead on particular busy periods is essential. I wouldn’t risk to travel without reservations in North India from August to February, for example. It really does get cramped with tourists, believe me. Don’t even try Goa.
Indian Trains are somewhat like religion… you have to believe, and be faithful Good luck!!